How to Properly Quarantine Coral:

A Comprehensive Guide for Marine Enthusiasts

Quarantining coral is an essential process that helps ensure the health and safety of your main reef tank by preventing the introduction of pests, diseases, and unwanted algae. This guide will walk you through the key steps, from initial acclimation to light acclimation, water testing, and ensuring the proper environment for your coral during the quarantine period.

1. Initial Acclimation

Before introducing coral to the quarantine tank, it’s important to acclimate it properly to avoid shock:

• Dip your corals:

Check out our article on coral pests and how to dip your new corals Here

• Water Acclimation: Begin by floating the coral in its bag or container within the quarantine tank for 15-30 minutes to equalize the temperature. Gradually add small amounts of water from the quarantine tank to the container every 5-10 minutes for about an hour. This will help the coral adjust to the pH, salinity, and other water parameters of the quarantine tank.

2. Light Acclimation

Corals are sensitive to changes in lighting conditions:

• Gradual Exposure: Start with dim or low-intensity lighting and gradually increase the intensity over the course of a week. This helps prevent light shock, which can cause coral bleaching or tissue recession.
• Ramp up: If using LEDs, consider utilizing a ramp-up mode that slowly increases light intensity over a week or more. If not using adjustable LEDs, use a shade on the light and slowly add more light.

3. Water Testing and Tank Parameters

A stable environment is crucial for the success of your quarantine process:

• Established Quarantine Tank: Ensure that your quarantine tank is fully cycled before introducing coral. A new cycle can stress the coral, increasing the risk of disease.
• Regular Testing: Monitor ammonia, nitrite, pH, and phosphate levels regularly. This is extremely important when feeding the corals to make sure you aren't getting an ammonia spike from uneaten food.
  • Ammonia: Should be at 0 ppm, as any detectable ammonia can be harmful.
  • Nitrite: Should also be at 0 ppm, indicating that the tank is fully cycled.
  • pH: Maintain a stable pH between 8.1 and 8.4.
  • Phosphate: Keep levels below 0.03 ppm to avoid algae growth, which can compete with coral.

To read more about water parameters, read our Intro to Water Testing Article Here

• Water Changes: Changing 5-10% water weekly to maintain parameters if needed.
• Top off: Make sure you are topping off your quarantine tank on a regular basis to maintain salinity levels.

***Pro-Tip:

• Salinity: I usually make my water line with a sharpie and then I make sure to always stay at that line. It saves me time in adjusting versus checking the salinity every day.
• Water Changes: Assuming my main tank is in really good condition. I will usually use my main tank's wastewater (the water I remove during a water change) for my quarantine tank. If your water conditions are not where they should be, do not do this.

4. Flow Considerations

Corals require adequate water flow to maintain health:

• Moderate to Strong Flow: Depending on the species, most corals prefer moderate to strong flow to facilitate nutrient exchange and waste removal. Ensure that the flow is consistent but not too turbulent, which can damage the coral’s tissue.

***Pro-Tip: I add flake food to my water column to see how it floats around the tank. See if the flow is too strong in one area or too gentle in another. Based on the flow patterns help me decide where to place my new corals. I also used the information to adjust the powerhead if needed.

5. Length of Quarantine

The duration of the quarantine period is critical:

• 4-6 Weeks: A quarantine period of 4-6 weeks is recommended. This time allows for observation of any potential pests or diseases and provides an opportunity to treat the coral if necessary.
• Multiple dips: Some pests need to be dipped several times to kill them off completely as the dip often kills the adults but not the eggs.

***Pro-tip: I dip my corals before they go into quarantine and again two weeks later. During the second dip, I spend a lot of time inspecting the corals for pests.

• For the first dip, I assume the coral is very stressed and usually hasn't eaten for weeks. Getting them settled and eating are my biggest priorities.
• If additional pests are discovered, I adjust my quarantine schedule and continue to dip until the corals are pest-free.

6. What to Watch For

During the quarantine period, keep an eye out for:

• Signs of Stress: Look for tissue recession, bleaching, or color fading, which may indicate stress or poor water conditions.
• Pests: Check for signs of pests such as flatworms, nudibranchs, or algae growth. If pests are detected, treat the coral using appropriate methods such as dips or manual removal.
• FYI: Some algae and pests are very hard to remove and should not be introduced into the main tank. I have had a few corals that no matter what I did I couldn't get the algae or pest to be eliminated completely. In those cases, they never go into my main displays.

7. Encouraging Coral to Eat

Some corals may be reluctant to feed initially:

• Target Feeding: Use a pipette or turkey baster to deliver food directly to the coral’s polyps. Foods like phytoplankton, zooplankton, or specialized coral foods can entice them to start eating. Begin with smaller amounts and gradually increase as the coral begins to feed regularly.

***Pro-Tip: Scent the water: When corals aren't readily eating I will often scent the water with some of the thawed liquid from the food or adding amino acids.

• It takes a lot of effort for a coral to open up and prepare to eat. If it has been several weeks (or months) since it has eaten, it might not have much energy to open up.
• After a few days or weeks of proper care and lighting I will usually get a few feeding tentacles to come out and test the water.
• I like to scent the water 20-30 mins before I plan to feed to ensure the coral is open and ready to eat as much food as possible to make the effort of opening up worth its times.
• After a few days of getting a big meal when it opens up it will have a few of its feeding tentacles out more often and open up much faster.
• This is really good training for the coral to open up and eat quickly when in your main tank.

8. When is Coral Ready for the Display Tank?

Determining when a coral is ready to be moved to your main tank involves observing:

• Healthy Growth: The coral should show signs of growth, including new polyp formation or tissue extension.
• Stable Coloration: The coral should maintain its coloration, indicating good health and acclimation to the quarantine conditions.
• Absence of Pests: Ensure that no pests or diseases are present before transferring the coral to the main tank.

9. Final Light Acclimation to Display Tank

When moving the coral to its permanent home, another round of light acclimation is necessary:

• Gradual Introduction: Similar to the initial light acclimation, gradually increase the light intensity in the display tank to match the coral’s needs. This process should take about a week to ensure the coral adapts without stress.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your corals remain healthy during quarantine and are well-prepared for life in your display tank. Proper quarantine not only protects your existing reef inhabitants but also gives new corals the best start possible in their new environment.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Avoiding common mistakes is key to a successful quarantine process:

• Rushing the Quarantine Process: Quarantining corals requires patience. Rushing the process can lead to introducing pests or diseases into your main tank.

• Inadequate Monitoring: Regular monitoring of water parameters and the coral’s health is crucial. Neglecting this can lead to undetected issues that may worsen over time.

• Overfeeding: Overfeeding can cause nutrient spikes, leading to poor water quality and stress on the coral.

Myths and Misconceptions

Several myths can mislead hobbyists and hinder effective coral quarantine:

• Myth: Quarantine is Unnecessary for Corals: Some believe that coral quarantine is unnecessary. However, pests, diseases, and unwanted algae can easily hitchhike on new corals and spread to your main tank. Proper quarantine is essential to prevent these issues.

• Myth: All Corals Can Handle the Same Light and Flow Conditions: Corals have varying requirements for light and flow. Assuming all corals need the same conditions can lead to stress and poor health. Tailor the quarantine setup to meet the specific needs of the coral species you are quarantining.