𝐌𝐚𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐲𝐩𝐡𝐲𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐚 𝐂𝐚𝐫𝐞: 𝐋𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠, 𝐅𝐞𝐞𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐏𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐓𝐢𝐩𝐬

What Are Trachyphyllia Corals?

Trachyphyllia corals are one of the most captivating large polyp stony (LPS) corals in the saltwater hobby. Their fleshy, oversized polyps, mesmerizing colors, and ability to thrive in lower-light reef tanks make them a favorite among beginners and advanced aquarists alike. Unlike many LPS corals, Trachyphyllia are free-living—meaning they don’t need to attach to rocks and prefer resting on soft sandbeds instead.

Their slow, rhythmic inflation and deflation give them an almost breathing appearance, adding a unique sense of movement to reef tanks. But despite their ease of care, they still require specific conditions to thrive, particularly when it comes to placement, feeding, and stable water chemistry.

In this guide, we'll cover everything you need to know about caring for Trachyphyllia corals, from proper tank placement to feeding habits, troubleshooting common issues, and debunking myths surrounding their care.

Trachyphyllia corals belong to the Lobophylliidae family and are found in the Indo-Pacific region, often in sandy, rubble-filled lagoons or the lower reef slopes where they experience moderate flow and diffused lighting. Unlike encrusting or branching LPS corals, they prefer to sit on soft substrate rather than attach to rockwork.

Historically, these corals were classified into two separate species—Trachyphyllia geoffroyi and Trachyphyllia radiata. However, modern research suggests that T. radiata is likely just a growth variation of T. geoffroyi, meaning that all Trachyphyllia corals in the trade today fall under Trachyphyllia geoffroyi.

Identification: How to Recognize Trachyphyllia Corals

1. Growth Form & Structure

• Shape: Large, fleshy polyps with deep skeletal folds.
• Skeleton: Thin and fragile compared to other LPS corals.
• Free-Living Nature: Unlike most LPS corals, Trachyphyllia do not encrust or attach to rock—they rest freely on the substrate.

2. Tentacle Behavior & Feeding Response

• Sweeper Tentacles: Extend at night and can deliver potent stings to nearby corals.
• Feeding Tentacles: Emerge when food is introduced into the water, allowing for easy target feeding.

3. Color Variations

• Green Morphs: The most common and hardy variety.
• Red Morphs: More vibrant but slightly more sensitive to stress.
• Rainbow/Ultra Morphs: A mix of multiple colors, often more expensive and potentially more light-sensitive.

4. Size & Growth Rate

• Size: Can grow 6-8 inches in diameter or larger.
• Growth Rate: Slow, usually 1-2 inches per year under optimal conditions.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Red Trachyphyllia tend to be slightly more delicate than green ones, but both require the same care. If you’re new to keeping these corals, start with a green morph before upgrading to high-end rainbow varieties!

Care Requirements

Trachyphyllia corals are generally easy to care for, but they do have specific preferences that ensure their longevity.

1. Placement: Keep Them on the Sand

Why is Placement Important?

Trachyphyllia corals are free-living corals that naturally rest on sandy or rubble-filled lagoons in the wild. Unlike many other LPS corals that attach to rockwork, Trachyphyllia have a heavy, fleshy body that can be easily damaged if placed on rough or uneven surfaces. Incorrect placement can lead to:

• Tissue Damage: Sharp or rough rocks can rub against the coral’s delicate flesh, leading to irritation, cuts, or even infections.
• Skeletal Stress: Unlike encrusting or branching corals, Trachyphyllia rely on a broad base for stability. Placing them on unstable surfaces can cause them to shift or tip over, leading to additional stress.
• Detritus Accumulation: If placed in a poor location, detritus can settle around the coral, leading to bacterial infections or algae growth on its exposed skeleton.

Best Placement for Trachyphyllia Corals

• Flat, Open Sandbed: A stable, flat area on the sand is ideal. This allows the coral to rest naturally and expand fully without risk of damage.
• Away from Burrowing Inverts: Keep them away from sand-sifting gobies, pistol shrimp, or digging wrasses, as these animals can bury the coral under sand, causing suffocation or irritation.
• Not in Direct Flow Zones: Strong flow in sandy areas can cause shifting substrates that partially cover the coral. If sand keeps piling up around the coral, consider adjusting the flow or moving the coral to a more stable location.

How to Secure Trachyphyllia on the Sandbed

• Dig a Shallow Indentation: Creating a small depression in the sand helps keep the coral stable and prevents it from being moved by water flow or tank activity.
• Use Coral Discs or Plates (Optional): If your sandbed is particularly fine or unstable, placing the coral on a flat frag disc or a small acrylic plate can help prevent it from sinking too deep.
• Monitor for Shifting Sand: Check the coral regularly to ensure it is not being buried by sand storms caused by powerheads or tankmates.

2. Lighting: Moderate to Low

Ideal Light Levels

• PAR Range: 50-150 PAR
• Preferred Light Type: LED, T5, or hybrid fixtures.
• Best Placement: Low to moderate light zones—avoid intense direct lighting.

Signs of Too Much Light

• Pale or bleached coloration
• Coral remains deflated for long periods
• Loss of fluorescence in bright morphs

Signs of Too Little Light

• Coral remains shrunken and doesn’t inflate fully
• Reduced feeding response
• Dull, darkening colors

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your Trachyphyllia starts looking pale but your tank parameters are fine, reduce the light exposure. Move it to a slightly shadier spot in the tank, and it will likely regain its vibrancy!

3. Flow: Low to Moderate

Why is Flow Important for Trachyphyllia Corals?

Trachyphyllia corals thrive in gentle, indirect water flow that mimics the conditions found in their natural habitats—lagoonal areas and sandy reef slopes. Unlike some LPS corals that prefer stronger currents to keep their surfaces clean, Trachyphyllia have thick, fleshy tissue that is easily irritated by excessive water movement. Too much flow can cause:

• Tissue Recession: Strong currents can cause the coral’s flesh to rub against its own skeleton, leading to irritation and potential tissue loss.
• Polyp Retraction: If the coral is being buffeted by flow, it may stay closed for extended periods, reducing feeding opportunities.
• Sweeper Tentacle Damage: While Trachyphyllia corals aren’t known for having overly long tentacles, excessive movement can cause tentacle stress or detachment during feeding periods.

Best Flow Conditions for Trachyphyllia

• Low to Moderate Flow: Aim for a flow pattern that allows the coral’s tissue to move slightly, but not so much that it looks like it’s being pulled in multiple directions.
• Indirect Flow: Direct flow from powerheads or return nozzles should be avoided—bouncing flow off the rockwork or using randomized flow generators can help create a more natural movement.
• Avoid Dead Zones: While they don’t need strong flow, stagnant areas can allow detritus and uneaten food to settle on the coral, which can lead to bacterial infections. Ensure there’s enough circulation to prevent debris buildup.

Placement Tip: Finding the Sweet Spot

• Sandy Bottom Placement: Since these corals naturally rest on soft substrates, placing them in a low-energy zone on the sand helps prevent damage.
• Away from High-Flow Outlets: Keep them away from powerheads, wavemakers, and direct return flow to avoid excessive movement.
• Gently Swaying Motion: If the coral’s flesh is swaying lightly and rhythmically rather than whipping around, it’s in the ideal location.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your Trachyphyllia looks "shrunken" or its flesh appears rough or pulled tight, check the flow! Too much movement can stress them out, while too little can allow debris to settle. Find that gentle balance!

4. Feeding: Essential for Growth

While Trachyphyllia corals contain zooxanthellae, they thrive best with supplemental feeding.

Best Foods for Trachyphyllia:

• Mysis Shrimp & Brine Shrimp – High in protein and easy to digest.
• Reef Roids & Coral Frenzy – Small-particle foods that mimic natural plankton.
• Amino Acids & Fatty Acid Supplements – Help with tissue repair and color enhancement.

How to Feed Trachyphyllia Corals:

1. Wait Until Lights Are Out: They naturally extend feeding tentacles at night.
2. Scent the Water: Add a small amount of food to the water column to trigger feeding behavior.
3. Target Feed: Use a turkey baster or pipette to gently direct food onto the coral’s tentacles.
4. Observe: Healthy Trachyphyllia will slowly pull food into their mouths within minutes.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your coral isn’t extending its tentacles, try scenting the water first! This helps stimulate a feeding response before you target feed.

5. Water Parameters

Trachyphyllia corals are highly sensitive to alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium fluctuations. Stable parameters are key to their health.

Optimal Water Parameters:

• Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
• Salinity: 1.024-1.026
• pH: 8.1-8.4
• Alkalinity: 8-12 dKH
• Calcium: 400-450 ppm
• Magnesium: 1250-1350 ppm
• Nitrates: 5-10 ppm (slightly elevated levels are beneficial!)
• Phosphates: 0.03-0.1 ppm

Common Water Chemistry Issues & Solutions

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your alkalinity is dropping rapidly, check your magnesium levels! Low magnesium can cause wild fluctuations in alkalinity, making it harder to maintain stable water chemistry.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Problem: Coral Is Receding or Tissue Is Peeling

• Cause: Excessive water flow, aggressive tankmates, or physical damage from placement on sharp rock.
• Solution:
  • Move the coral to a low-flow area where it won’t be battered by strong currents.
  • Observe tankmates—certain fish like angelfish, butterflyfish, and even some wrasses may nip at fleshy LPS corals. Remove or relocate aggressive fish if needed.
  • Ensure that the coral isn't placed on rough rock that could tear its tissue. A smooth sandbed is best.
  • Check for parasites like flatworms or nudibranchs that could be irritating the coral. If found, perform a coral dip.

Problem: Pale or Bleached Appearance

• Cause: Excess light exposure, sudden changes in alkalinity, or stress from unstable water conditions.
• Solution:
  • Reduce light intensity by adjusting placement in the tank or using shading methods like mesh screens. Trachyphyllia corals prefer moderate lighting.
  • Gradually acclimate the coral to higher light levels if upgrading lighting systems. Sudden exposure to intense light can cause bleaching.
  • Maintain stable alkalinity levels within the ideal range of 8-10 dKH to prevent stress-related bleaching.
  • Check for other stressors like temperature fluctuations, excessive phosphate levels, or imbalanced trace elements.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your Trachyphyllia is turning pale but your light settings haven’t changed, test your alkalinity and nitrates—corals can bleach from starvation, not just lighting!

Problem: Skeleton Is Exposed or Coral Is Shrinking

• Cause: Insufficient feeding, nutrient deficiencies, or high phosphate levels interfering with calcification.
• Solution:
  • Increase feeding frequency with meaty foods like mysis shrimp, reef roids, or blended coral foods. Feed 2-3 times per week for optimal health.
  • Check nitrate and phosphate levels—slightly elevated levels of 5-10 ppm nitrates and 0.03-0.05 ppm phosphates are beneficial for LPS corals.
  • If the coral is showing slow growth or recession, test calcium, magnesium, and strontium levels. Maintain:
    • Calcium: 400-450 ppm
    • Magnesium: 1250-1350 ppm
    • Alkalinity: 8-10 dKH
  • If phosphates are too high (>0.1 ppm), consider using phosphate removers like GFO or reducing overfeeding.

Problem: No Tentacle Extension at Night

• Cause: Stress, predation, or lack of food response.
• Solution:
  • Some Trachyphyllia corals extend feeding tentacles naturally, while others need coaxing. Try broadcasting a small amount of food into the water column before target feeding. This often triggers a feeding response.
  • Check for nocturnal predators like bristle worms or crabs that may be disturbing the coral at night. Use a flashlight to inspect after lights out.
  • Ensure the coral is placed in a low-flow zone—excessive flow can cause tentacles to retract.
  • Observe fish behavior; certain species may pick at corals, preventing proper extension.

Problem: Coral Appears "Deflated" for Multiple Days

• Cause: Alkalinity swings, bacterial infections, or hidden tissue damage.
• Solution:
  • Test alkalinity levels and correct any drastic swings. Sudden changes can cause tissue inflation or deflation.
  • Inspect the coral closely for signs of brown jelly disease, a bacterial infection that can quickly destroy LPS corals. If found, perform a coral dip and iodine treatment immediately.
  • If water parameters check out, leave the coral undisturbed in a stable environment—constant handling or movement can prolong stress.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: If your Trachyphyllia coral looks shrunken for more than a few days, don’t panic! Check nitrates, phosphates, and alkalinity first. Sometimes, a minor tweak in parameters can make all the difference.

FAQs About Trachyphyllia Corals

Q: How fast do Trachyphyllia corals grow?

A: Trachyphyllia corals are slow-growing, typically increasing in size by 1-2 inches per year under ideal conditions. Their growth rate depends on factors such as lighting, water parameters, feeding frequency, and nutrient availability. Providing stable alkalinity (8-10 dKH), consistent feeding with meaty foods, and moderate lighting will encourage healthier and potentially faster growth.

Q: Can Trachyphyllia corals touch other corals?

A: No, and you don’t want them to! Trachyphyllia corals have sweeper tentacles that extend at night, capable of delivering a strong sting to nearby corals. If placed too close to other LPS or SPS corals, their tentacles can cause tissue damage or even kill neighboring corals over time. Always provide a buffer zone of at least 3-4 inches around them to prevent coral warfare.

Q: Are Trachyphyllia corals aggressive?

A: Yes! Despite their slow growth and fleshy appearance, Trachyphyllia corals are highly aggressive toward other corals. Their sweeper tentacles can extend several inches, especially at night, to protect their space. Even corals that seem "safe" nearby may eventually suffer from repeated stings. To minimize aggression, give them plenty of space and place them on a sandy bottom rather than rockwork, where they are less likely to interact with other corals.

Q: Why is my Trachyphyllia coral staying deflated?

A: A Trachyphyllia coral that remains deflated for an extended period may be experiencing one or more issues:

• Low Nutrients: Unlike SPS corals, Trachyphyllia benefit from slightly elevated nitrate (5-10 ppm) and phosphate (0.03-0.05 ppm) levels. If the water is too "clean," they may struggle to thrive.
• Unstable Alkalinity: Fluctuating alkalinity can stress corals and cause retraction. Ensure your levels are stable between 8-10 dKH.
• Lack of Feeding: These corals are active feeders, and regular feeding of meaty foods (mysis shrimp, reef roids, or coral-specific blends) can help restore tissue health and expansion.
• Excess Flow: If water movement is too strong, it can prevent the coral from fully inflating. Trachyphyllia prefer gentle to moderate flow to allow full polyp extension.
• Lighting Issues: Too much or too little light can cause stress. If it’s in direct, high-intensity lighting, consider moving it to a shaded area or lowering PAR levels to 100-150.
• Hidden Pests: Bristle worms, crabs, or other nocturnal predators may be bothering your coral. Try inspecting at night with a flashlight to check for unwanted hitchhikers.

If deflation persists for several days, test all water parameters, reduce stressors, and try a small feeding to encourage recovery.

Q: Can I keep multiple Trachyphyllia corals together?

A: Yes, but with spacing! Unlike some LPS corals that may tolerate close placement, Trachyphyllia corals still need at least a few inches between individuals to prevent accidental stinging. However, compared to other LPS corals like Euphyllia (Torches, Hammers, Frogspawn), Trachyphyllia corals tend to tolerate others of their species better.

If you plan to keep multiple, ensure:

• They are not touching directly to prevent accidental irritation.
• They have enough space to expand fully without overlap.
• They are all well-fed, as underfed corals may resort to aggression to compete for food.

Keeping a group of Trachyphyllia corals of different color morphs can create a beautiful, diverse look in a reef tank while maintaining compatibility.

Conclusion

Trachyphyllia corals are an excellent choice for both beginners and experienced reef keepers. With their stunning colors, manageable care requirements, and rewarding growth, they make a fantastic showpiece in any reef tank. By following the right lighting, feeding, and water parameter guidelines, you can keep your Trachyphyllia coral thriving for years to come.

Happy Reefing!

References: 

1. Veron, J. E. N. (2000). Corals of the world (Vol. 1-3). Australian Institute of Marine Science.

2. Cairns, S. D., Hoeksema, B. W., & van der Land, J. (1999). Appendix: List of extant stony corals. Atoll Research Bulletin, 459, 13-46.

3. Borneman, E. H. (2001). Aquarium corals: Selection, husbandry, and natural history. TFH Publications.

4. Sheppard, C. R. C., Davy, S. K., & Pilling, G. M. (2018). The biology of coral reefs (2nd ed.). Oxford University Press.

5. Huang, D., Benzoni, F., Fukami, H., Knowlton, N., Smith, N. D., & Budd, A. F. (2014). Taxonomic classification of the reef coral family Lobophylliidae (Cnidaria: Anthozoa: Scleractinia). Zoological Journal of the Linnean Society, 171(2), 277-355.