𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐔𝐥𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐆𝐮𝐢𝐝𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐄𝐮𝐩𝐡𝐲𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐚 & 𝐅𝐢𝐦𝐛𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐩𝐡𝐲𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐚 𝐂𝐨𝐫𝐚𝐥𝐬

Introduction

Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia corals are among the most iconic and mesmerizing large-polyp stony (LPS) corals in the reef aquarium hobby. Their flowing tentacles, stunning color variations, and relatively hardy nature make them a favorite for reef keepers of all skill levels. However, they do require specific care, water conditions, and disease prevention to thrive.

Euphyllia vs. Fimbriaphyllia: Understanding the New Classification

In recent years, the Euphyllia genus was split into two distinct genera based on genetic analysis and skeletal structure differences:

Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia Corals: Species and Common Names

Chart Credit: New Dawn Aquaculture

💡 Tamara’s Pro Tip: While the names have changed, care requirements remain the same! Many hobbyists and stores still refer to these corals as Euphyllia, so don’t be confused if you see the older names.

An In-Depth Look

A. Hammer Corals (Fimbriaphyllia spp.)

Hammer corals are named for their unique, hammer or anchor-shaped tentacle tips. They come in two distinct growth forms:

1. Branching Hammer (Fimbriaphyllia parancora)

Photo Credit: Vivid Aquariums, Exotic-Corals, Frag Garden, Nano-Reef.com, Tidal Gardens

• • Description: Grows in a branching structure, with each polyp forming its own separate head.
  • Color Varieties: Green, gold, purple, orange, and bi-color variants.
  • Growth Pattern: Branching.

2. Wall Hammer (Fimbriaphyllia ancora)

Photo Credit: Blue Zoo Aquatics, Top Shelf Aquatics, Barrier Reef Aquariums, Exotic Corals, Vivid Aquariums, The Biota Group

• • Description: Grows in a continuous, wall-like formation with shared tissue across the colony.
  • Color Varieties: Green, gold, purple, and pink.
  • Growth Pattern: Wall.

B. Torch Corals (Euphyllia glabrescens)

Torch corals are distinct due to their long, flowing tentacles, often tipped with fluorescent coloration.

Photo Credit: Extreme Corals, Reef Chasers, TRSC Aquatics, Live Aquaria, A to Zoanthids, Whitlyn Aquatics 

• • Description: Features elongated, flowing tentacles with bright tips, creating an elegant swaying motion.
  • Color Varieties: Neon green, gold, purple, pink, and bi-color variations.
  • Growth Pattern: Branching.

C. Frogspawn Corals (Fimbriaphyllia spp.)

Frogspawn corals have polyps with bulbous, grape-like tentacle tips that resemble frog eggs.

1. Branching Frogspawn (Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa)

Photo Credit: LiveAquaria, Worldwide Corals, Tidal Gardens, New Dawn Aquaculture, Seattle Corals, TCK Corals

• • Description: Forms branching structures where each head grows independently.
  • Color Varieties: Green, pink, blue, and fluorescent hues.
  • Growth Pattern: Branching.

2. Wall Frogspawn (Fimbriaphyllia divisa)

Photo Credit: Queen City Corals, Corals.com, Pacific East Aquaculture, Seahorse Aquariums

• • Description: Unlike F. paradivisa, this species grows in a continuous sheet of tissue instead of individual branches.
  • Color Varieties: Green, pink, teal, and fluorescent shades.
  • Growth Pattern: Wall.

D. Octospawn Coral (Fimbriaphyllia yaeyamaensis)

Photo Credit: Queen City Corals, Top Shelf Aquatics, Reef Solution, Tidal Gardens, Extreme Corals

• Description: Closely resembles frogspawn corals but has thinner, more delicate, feathery tentacles, giving it a soft, flowing appearance.
• Color Varieties: Pastel greens, pinks, blues, and purples.
• Growth Pattern: Branching.

E. Micro Torch/Grape Coral (Euphyllia cristata)

Photo Credit: Tidal Gardens, Reef Builders

• Description: Named for its compact, tightly packed polyps with shorter tentacles compared to torch corals.
• Color Varieties: Green, purple, blue, and pink.
• Growth Pattern: Branching.

Which Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia Corals Can Touch?

One of the most common concerns when keeping Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia corals is understanding which species can be placed close together without causing chemical warfare. While these corals are known for their long, flowing tentacles and potential for aggression, some species can coexist peacefully when placed in proximity.

✅ Safe to Touch

Hammer Corals (Fimbriaphyllia ancora & F. paraancora)

• Wall and branching hammers tolerate each other best when paired by growth form.

Frogspawn Corals (Fimbriaphyllia divisa & F. paradivisa)

• Typically coexist without aggression.

Hammer & Frogspawn Corals

• Can often touch without issues.
• Many reefers report success mixing them.

⚠️ Use Caution

Torch Corals (Euphyllia glabrescens)

• More aggressive than hammers or frogspawn.
• Requires buffer space to prevent stinging.

Grape Coral (Euphyllia cristata)

• May act like a torch coral in aggression.
• Could tolerate frogspawn but needs monitoring.

❌ Never Mix

Torch Coral with Other Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia

• Torches have aggressive sweeper tentacles that can sting hammers, frogspawn, and grape corals.

Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia with Non-Euphyllia Corals

• Can engage in chemical warfare with LPS like Favias, Acans, and Goniopora.
• Avoid placing near SPS corals due to long nighttime sweeper tentacles.

Beginner-Friendly Euphyllia Corals

These corals are more tolerant of parameter fluctuations, slower to react negatively to changes, and generally easy to keep once settled.

1. Hammer Corals (Fimbriaphyllia ancora & Fimbriaphyllia paraancora)

• Why it’s beginner-friendly:
  • Adaptable to a range of lighting and flow conditions.
  • Generally less aggressive than torches, making placement easier.
  • Recovers well from minor stressors like fragging or dips.
• Challenges: Wall hammers are more difficult to frag, but overall, care is simple.

2. Frogspawn Corals (Fimbriaphyllia divisa & Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa)

• Why it’s beginner-friendly:
  • Tolerant of moderate flow and lighting, doesn’t require excessive feeding.
  • Less aggressive than torches, meaning easier placement with other Fimbriaphyllia.
  • Hardy once acclimated and can handle minor fluctuations in alkalinity and calcium.
• Challenges: Can retract for long periods if irritated but usually bounces back.

Tank Requirements & Ideal Water Parameters

Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia corals thrive in mature, stable reef tanks with the following parameters:

1. Water Parameters

💡 Tamara’s Pro Tip: Euphyllia & Fimbriaphyllia corals prefer slightly "dirtier" water compared to SPS corals. Ultra-low nutrient tanks can cause starvation, while excess nutrients can promote brown jelly disease. Personally I will often keep my LPS corals up to 20ppm of Nitrates.

2. Lighting Needs

• Moderate lighting is ideal. A PAR range of 80-150 is recommended.

• Avoid overly intense lighting, as these corals can bleach under excessive exposure.

• Best light sources: T5, LED, or metal halide with adjustable settings.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Torch corals tend to tolerate higher light than hammers or frogspawn, so consider placement accordingly!

3. Flow Requirements

• Moderate to gentle flow is preferred.

• Avoid direct, high-intensity flow, which can cause tissue damage.

• A randomized flow pattern is best to mimic natural water movement.

4. Placement in the Tank

• Mid to lower areas of the reef tank are best, depending on lighting intensity.

• Keep at least 3-4 inches of space between Euphyllia species and other corals to prevent aggressive stinging.

5. Feeding & Nutrition

• While these corals contain symbiotic zooxanthellae, they benefit from supplemental feeding.

• Feed 1-2 times a week with:

  • Meaty foods: Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp

  • Coral foods: Reef Roids, Reef Chili

  • Amino acids & trace elements to enhance growth and coloration.

• Grape Corals: Feed smaller particles like plankton or coral frenzy.

• Branching Hammers: Target-feed with a turkey baster for optimal nutrient uptake.

Tamara’s Pro Tip: Target feeding at night when polyps are extended will yield the best feeding response!

Common Diseases & Treatments

Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia corals are susceptible to bacterial infections, parasites, and tissue recession.

1. Brown Jelly Disease (BJD)

• Symptoms: Brown, gelatinous goo covering the coral’s tissue.

• Causes: Poor water quality, tissue damage, or stress.

• Treatment:

  • Immediately isolate the infected coral.

  • Perform a iodine dip (Lugol’s solution).

  • Improve tank conditions to prevent spread.

Read the Full Article on BJD Here

2. Tissue Recession

• Causes: Rapid swings in alkalinity, poor water flow, or pest infections.

• Solution: Test water parameters frequently and provide stable conditions.

3. Bleaching

• Causes: Excessive light exposure or nutrient deficiencies.

• Solution: Reduce light intensity and ensure proper feeding.

4. Flatworms & Pests

• Check for pests like AEFW (Acropora-eating flatworms) and nuisance hitchhikers.

• Treat with dips like Coral RX or Bayer insecticide (proper dilution is key).

Read the Full Article on Coral Pests Here

Polyp Bailout: Causes & Solutions

What is Polyp Bailout?

Polyp bailout occurs when a coral’s tissue detaches from its skeleton, often drifting away in the water column. While this can be a survival mechanism, it’s usually a sign of severe stress and can lead to coral death.

Common Causes of Polyp Bailout

1. Sudden or Extreme Water Parameter Changes
   Rapid shifts in salinity, alkalinity, pH, or temperature can stress corals.
   Solution: Make gradual adjustments when dosing or changing water parameters.

2. High Nutrient Levels (Nitrate & Phosphate)
   Excessive nitrates and phosphates can contribute to stress, leading to bailout.
   Solution: Maintain stable nutrient levels—nitrate below 10 ppm and phosphate below 0.1 ppm.

3. Poor Water Flow
   Insufficient or excessive flow can cause tissue recession or stress response.
   Solution: Ensure moderate, indirect flow to prevent tissue damage.

4. Lighting Stress (Too Much or Too Little)
   Sudden increases in PAR or poor acclimation can trigger bailout.
   Solution: Gradually adjust lighting and provide shaded areas if needed.

5. Chemical Warfare (Aggressive Neighboring Corals)
   Some corals release toxins that stress nearby colonies.
   Solution: Keep aggressive corals, such as Euphyllia and Favias, at a safe distance.

6. Bacterial or Parasitic Infection
   Some infections cause tissue loss, leading to polyp detachment.
   Solution: Use iodine dips or antibiotic treatments if infection is suspected.

Can a Bailed-Out Polyp Survive?

In some cases, free-floating polyps can reattach and regenerate under the right conditions.

Steps to Improve Survival:

• Place in a Low-Flow Area – A breeding box or frag rack can help protect the polyp.
• Reduce Light Intensity – Minimizing additional stress can improve chances of recovery.
• Feed Small Particles – Encourage survival by offering zooplankton or powdered coral food.
• Monitor for Signs of Reattachment – Some polyps may settle and form new skeletons.

If polyp bailout happens frequently, it is a sign of instability in the tank that should be addressed promptly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Q: How fast do Euphyllia corals grow?

A: Growth rates vary depending on species, tank conditions, and feeding. On average, branching Euphyllia (hammers, frogspawn, and torches) grow 1-2 inches per year under optimal conditions. Wall varieties grow much slower, as they do not branch and can’t be fragged as easily. Regular feeding of amino acids and small meaty foods can accelerate growth.

2. Q: Can Euphyllia corals recover from bleaching?

A: Yes, but recovery depends on how quickly the cause is addressed. If a Euphyllia coral has lost its color due to light shock, gradually reducing light intensity or increasing acclimation time can help. If bleaching was due to nutrient starvation, feeding reef-safe coral foods, amino acids, or small meaty foods like mysis shrimp can encourage recovery. It may take weeks to months for full color to return.

3. Q: How do I know if my Euphyllia is happy?

A: Signs of a thriving Euphyllia coral include:

• Fully extended tentacles during the day.
• Vibrant coloration.
• Regular polyp division in branching species.
• Gentle swaying in the current.

B: Signs of stress include:

• Tentacles retracting for long periods.
• Pale or brown coloration.
• Sudden tissue recession.

4. Q: Can Euphyllia corals be fragged?

A: Branching Euphyllia (hammers, frogspawn, torches) can be fragged easily by cutting between branches. Wall Euphyllia cannot be fragged safely, as their skeletons are continuous and cutting them often results in tissue damage and death.

Conclusion

Euphyllia and Fimbriaphyllia corals are among the most beautiful and dynamic LPS corals in the reef aquarium hobby. With their flowing tentacles, vibrant colors, and relative hardiness, they make excellent additions to a reef tank. However, they require stable water parameters, moderate lighting, proper flow, and occasional feeding to truly thrive.

Understanding the recent reclassification of Euphyllia vs. Fimbriaphyllia corals is important, but care requirements remain the same. By following best placement practices, disease prevention strategies, and fragging techniques, you can ensure your corals grow, expand, and become a stunning focal point in your reef.

Happy Reefing!

References: 

1. Borneman, Eric H. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History. TFH Publications, 2001.

2. Fenner, Robert M. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. TFH Publications, 2008.

3. Shimek, Ronald L. The Coral Reef Aquarium: An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Fish. Howell Book House, 2002.

4. Calfo, Anthony, and Robert Fenner. Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care, and Compatibility. Reading Trees Publications, 2003.